The route: Canberra – Adaminaby – Berridale – Dalgety – Jindabyne – Thredbo – Khancoban – Walwa – Albury – Wodonga – Tallangatta – Mitta Mitta – Mount Beauty – Bright – Harrietville – Dargo – Briagalong – Maffra – Heyfield – Glengarry – Moe – Warragul – Powelltown – Yarra Junction – Melbourne

When it comes to multi-day trips by bike, it would come as no surprise that gravel roads are what CyclingGravel likes most. One of the things that make them great is often the scenery, but it is also the places you go that are ‘less travelled’. Taking the ‘hilly way’ is also a great way to avoid traffic – away from the highways and main roads. So, with this in mind, I mapped a route from Canberra to Melbourne that attempted to take in some of the best of the alpine areas of Australia and certainly did not attempt to go direct. Sometimes influenced by the location of a brewery…..

Day 1: Canberra – Adaminaby

CyclingGravel had previously ridden to Cooma via Bobeyan Road, and this is infinitely preferable to the Monaro Highway (see Day 1 of this trip). This formed the basis of the plan to ride to Adaminaby, and the start of the time in the mountains.

Highlights

Heading out of Canberra, the route down through Naas and then up Fitz’s to Namadgi National Park is a great way to start the trip. In fact, this first part of the route makes for a great return day ride from town – stopping at the Glendale Picnic area for a break before returning. This is totally ok on a roadie.

Boboyan Road’s gravel is also great fun. A challenge with these routes, though, is water. CyclingGravel is not a fan of carrying lots (more than 3 bidons) if avoidable, and here there are places you can stop to refill if you carry a filter. A good stop is Gudgenby River before the last 5km long steep climb, at the top of which is Hospital Hill lookout. This is a nice place for lunch, and whilst the climbing is not quite done the steepest definitely is.

Another place to stop for a break, a further 14km on, is Brayshaws hut. There is a toilet here as well as a water tank – and it is possible to camp here if you are so inclined.

Lowlights

The lowlight of the trip was a pretty minor one, and is the major downside of gravel cycling – road condition. Once in NSW and past the intersection with Shannons Flat Road (which heads to Cooma), the condition of Boboyan Road was not terrific. In parts this was because of active road works, in others because the road just needed a grade. There were some great views though!

Other tips and recommendations

The Snow Goose Hotel provided decent pub-style rooms at a price that is somewhat inflated by the Snowy 2.0 worker crowd. Make sure you book if you want a room here.

NB: Is it Bobeyan or Boboyan? Not sure, but as usual Tim the Yowie Man is a useful source!

Day 2: Adaminaby – Jindabyne

There is no doubt that there is a more direct route to Jindabyne than the one I took. My choice of roads was heavily influenced by a desire to avoid the main Kosciuszko Road between Cooma and Jindabyne. The opportunity to revisit Dalgety Brewing was hard to resist as this added lovely gravel, but also the killer Beloka climb.

Highlights

Some of my favourite NSW cycling is on the Monaro, and Middlingbank Road between the Snowy Mountains Highway and Berridale is an example of this country backroad heaven. Enough said – the photos kind of make the only statements that are required.

Rockwell Road between Berridale and Dalgety is similarly awesome, but gravel. Just be aware of the water crossing wade that is required at the Dalgety end – captured in more detail in Day 10 of this ride.

The trip ends on the Snowy River Way. I have previously cycled other parts of this road – between three different trips I’ve pretty much cycled it end-to-end. It seems to be popular with motorbike groups and sports car drivers – and it should also be with cyclists.

Having said that it is a little hilly. I didn’t take any photos of the Beloka climb as I was too busy grinding my way up, but it looks nice from a distance. Once you get to the top the road has some great views of the Snowy Mountains as you head down on the way to Jindabyne.

Lowlights

I confess to being a little apprehensive about the unavoidable 24km stretch on the Snowy Mountains Highway. Although I was cycling on a workday morning (leaving Adaminaby around 0730), the traffic was not terrible. Yes, there were some trucks, but the road offered sufficient visibility and limited traffic so that those who were passing were able to give a wide berth. Just as well as there is very limited verge.

Other tips and recommendations

Dalgety Brewing is a lovely place, but it needs to be given the steep cycle in and out that is required! More seriously the beer and food is great and on this day I was the only one there. How about the view?

I can also recommend the coffee at The Bean and Barley in Berridale. Lots of nice outside seating which is great on a warm day, and there seemed plenty of food options.

Day 3: Jindabyne – Khancoban

This day was really hard work. I loved it, but there was a lot of climbing. Plus I added the challenge of doing some of the Thredbo Valley Track with my loaded bike. But the views!

Highlights

OK, so here is the thing. The Thredbo Valley Track is not a bikepacking route. Great for mountain biking. Not so good with a loaded bike. But….it was fun. One of the reasons that I elected to do this trip with my mountain bike was in the expectation that perhaps I would be able to check out this trail. And that worked fine. Whilst much slower than the road it was great to check out. Towards the end I jumped back on the road for the final few kilometres into Thredbo because I knew I had so much further to go, but do check it out if you have the chance.

After Thredbo the final 5km to Dead Horse Gap is also a lovely part of the trip. Beautiful alpine scenery, mountain streams and, at the top, a sense of satisfaction that a good descent is in front of you.

The entire Alpine Way route through to Khancoban from Thredbo is a lovely cycle. There is very little traffic and tremendous scenery all along – the station at Tom Groggin, mountain views and lookouts, and solid climbs and descents. This day had the most climbing of the whole trip, and other than Thredbo there isn’t anywhere to obtain supplies – so make sure you plan ahead for food and water.

Lowlights

The Alpine Way climb from Jindabyne to Crackenback was the lowlight of the day. Not terrible, but with a solid headwind and somewhat busy road it was definitely the least fun part. Worst of it is also one part (not pictured) where the climb is about 10% and it coincides with an overtaking lane (typically in Australia this means less verge).

Other tips and recommendations

There isn’t a lot of choice on where to stay in Khancoban – the Alpine Inn is pretty much it. A place that clearly saw its heyday around the time of the original Snowy scheme, it still offers basic and clean ensuite rooms. The highlight, however, is the massive front lawn / beer garden where you can have a beer and meal after the day’s riding.

Day 4: Khancoban – Wodonga

After the previous day’s climbing, it might not have been the most brilliant idea to commit to cycling 175km the following day. I was determined, however, to take the River Road – it looked like great gravel. And, after that, doubly determined to make it to a new brewery in Albury. And that really is kind of the point – champagne gravel + brewery = fun.

Highlights

River Road proved to be the sort of gravel road you would travel some distance to take. Whilst one of the local farmers commented on the quality of the surface (the first half did suffer from corrugations), it was still an epic ride. I would love to go back and, as mentioned below, ride the road between Tintaldra and Jingelic.

The other nice surprise was the cycleways and paths in Albury-Wodonga. These were pretty easy to use, and with a little planning allowed cross-town cycling without any need to use a main road. Good stuff.

Lowlights

Starting early, I was a little apprehensive about the unavoidable Murray Valley Highway. I needn’t have worried too much – whilst there was some traffic it was infrequent and gave me a wide berth. I had also hoped to avoid some of it by taking Towong Hill Road but it was closed. If I hadn’t been going so far, I might have started on the River Road gravel by crossing the river at Tintaldra. On the plus side, staying in Victoria allowed for a stop in Walwa (at the rather good General Store), rather than waiting for Jingelic.

Whilst the ferry itself was not a lowlight, the ferry operator was. Berated for missing that there was a button to press at a stop sign (it is less obvious on the NSW side than the picture above, and seemed superfluous given the ferry was at the side I needed) I wasn’t expecting to be lectured on being “unsupervised in a workspace”. Sigh. My recommendation is to press the button – save yourself the grief.

Other tips and recommendations

I loved a lot about the Thirsty Devil. The beer was good, the owners created a great vibe, and the venue huge. Highly entertaining was the ‘Tater Toss’ (needless to say, she got it in). Pizzas on offer too.

I’d also like to offer an unsponsored plug for using Airbnb on your next cycling trip. Whilst so many of the Australian Airbnb listings are a whole house or require multi-night stays, I have started to make a habit of checking out Airbnb for my trips as you can find some real gems. Sometimes farm stays, backyard granny flats, or house guest rooms, these often prove to be a tremendous alternative to the usual options. My Wodonga Airbnb exemplified some of the benefits you can achieve with a lovely host, self-catering facilities, and a quiet backyard location.

Day 5: Wodonga – Mitta Mitta

After the preceding day’s escapades, this day (and the next) were designed to be easier and shorter. Not less fun though…

Highlights

Heading out of Wodonga, it is easy to connect right on the High Country Rail Trail. This is a trail I have previously used, but never all the way to/from Wodonga (see, for example, Day 7 and Day 3 of these trips). The stretch from Wodonga to Huon is different from other parts of the trail, with parts on raised platforms above the Kiewa flood plains and passing old train stations. Closer to Tallangatta the views open up alongside the lake.

To travel between Tallangatta and Mitta Mitta it is possible to take the Omeo Highway via Eskdale. Needless to say CyclingGravel chose the alternative, taking Yabba Road and the gravel of Bullhead Road instead.

Yabba Road was mostly traffic-free and followed the Mitta Mitta River up the valley. Whilst following the river did not mean hill-free, Bullhead Road removed all doubt with a corner-cutting but hill-included skip over to Mitta Mitta. At times this road became track-like, but nothing too challenging on passing between and through farmland and then state forest before returning to farmland on descent to Mitta Mitta. The final stretch into town (and the brewery) is on the narrow but nice Mitta North Road.

Lowlights

None. None at all.

Other tips and recommendations

Mitta Mitta Brewing Co exemplifies the best of small town country brewing – passionate team, a small selection of interesting beer, good food, great views. So nice I went twice – at end of ride and then back for dinner.

Day 6: Mitta Mitta – Bright

Whilst not a long day, the route from Mitta Mitta to Bright involved significant climbing. And some lovely gravel.

Highlights

I met quite a few motorcyclists on the Trappers Gap and Mountain Creek Roads between Mitta Mitta and Mount Beauty. They have learnt the secret – this is an epic route. Starting up a valley through farmland, the route becomes a decent quality gravel forest road all the way through to Mountain Creek campground, where tarmac returns for the final 12km into town. One of the best parts of this entire trip.

Lowlights

None really. Even the climb on the reasonably busy Tawonga Gap Road, frequented by roadies, was characterised by considerate drivers. Nice.

Other tips and recommendations

Having learnt from previous trips, I sometimes splurge on a hotel with a pool and washing machine mid-trip. Kudos to Bright Colonial Motel for lovely modern and big rooms, a nice pool to cool off in, and the laundry – which even provided drying racks so you don’t need to use a drier if you don’t want. It is also well located – a little out of the main downtown, but easily walkable to the supermarket, restaurants and brewery.

Day 7: Bright – Dargo

I confess that a significant influence on the planning of this trip was to cycle the Dargo High Plains Road. It did not disappoint – this a day’s gravel cycling that should be on any bikepacker’s bucket list.

Highlights

From the turn off from the Great Alpine Road, Dargo High Plains Road is a 70km trip, mostly on gravel. An initial descent on what could loosely be called tarmac soon gives way to gravel that I had the good fortune to encounter when it had been well graded.

For much of the first part of the journey you are above the snow line, and the views are epic – big sky, mountain and valley views, and lovely gravel. I imagine after the snow melt it is possible that the road could be muddy and slippery.

After around 15km the road flattens out for a while and passes through grazing land – some now within the national park, but other parts still in use – before entering into the forest for most of the remaining run to Dargo. Towards the end you have the treat of a 12km long, 900m descent on a sealed road into the Dargo River Valley. So much fun, no time for photos….

Lowlights

The “worst” part of this ride is the climb on the Great Alpine Road out of Harrietville. Roadies love this cycle, and I had a good idea of what it would be like from a previous trip the other way – up and over from Omeo (Day 6 of this ride). The first 10km is the steepest, but never terribly challenging. In addition, the traffic is slow and able to give a width berth. Provided it is not too windy, this all makes for a part of the day that really is not much of a lowlight, particularly as you exit the road before the really pinchy final climbs to Hotham.

Other tips and recommendations

I stayed at an off-grid farmstay cabin via Airbnb that was just out of town. I took my own supplies for dinner. Not cheap, but beautiful.

Day 8: Dargo – Heyfield

After a big day to Dargo, it was time for a more relaxed trip heading down to the Gippsland Plains.

Highlights

Whilst there isn’t any gravel, Dargo Road makes for a lovely ride. It is always a good indication when there are “motorbike high risk area” signs as this means lovely curves and limited traffic. There are two decent climbs to make before a final descent to the Gippsland Plains.

Special kudos to the town of Briagolong, with some lovely building art. The general store has plenty of options for a refuel, and picnic tables for a sunny rest.

Lowlights

I’ve cycled the Gippsland Plains Rail Trail a few times now, and travelling on it again just highlights how it could be so much better. It is a lovely ride, but is now mostly fire-trail style for its eastern half. A trail is better than no trail, but when compared to routes like Murray to Mountains, Tumbarumba to Rosewood, and Warburton Rail Trail it could be so much better. Anyone planning a rail trail would really benefit from contrasting those that build appropriate culverts, bridges and road-like surfaces, and those that don’t.

Other tips and recommendations

The Railway Hotel Heyfield is a surprise – well maintained and relatively modern rooms for a very reasonable price. And the best bar table I’ve seen in a while.

Day 9: Heyfield – Warragul

Another day mostly on the plains. A local recommended I try Grand Ridge Road, but time and tired legs did not really allow. For another trip maybe…

Highlights

Notwithstanding my previous comments about this rail trail, the western end of the Gippsland Plains Rail Trail is in better condition, including a new bridge that didn’t exist when I last visited. The views in this part, particularly between Heyfield and Cowwarr, are great.

The Moe-Yallourn Rail Trail was an unexpected find. Starting at the power station, it makes for a nice run through to Moe, and certainly beats the main road alternative.

Finally, the roads between Moe and Warragul take a little bit of planning, but there are some great quiet ones that offer ridgeline views, run parallel to canals, and pass through idyllic dairy country.

Lowlights

I actually found a brewery I didn’t rate much – Yarragon Ale House. The beer was ok, but a tasting paddle quite expensive. Redeeming feature was the view.

Other tips and recommendations

In contrast to my earlier brewery visit, Bandolier Brewing offered really great beer. Not only are the Mexican-style beers (amongst plenty of others on offer) a great contrast to what is typical of craft breweries, the Mexican food was also great. And the brewery logo has to be one the very best around – particulary for a cyclist!

Day 10: Warragul – Melbourne

I confess that I was unsure how to make my way to northern parts of Melbourne on my way into town. I didn’t quite get this right, but found a great rail trail and also really pleasant cycleways inside Melbourne.

Highlights

I was expecting that the roads between Warragul and Yarra Junction would not be great. This proved incorrect – on a week day they were quiet and fun to cycle. Very scenic (although I did have to take shelter from a thunderstorm at the Powelly Pub!).

Probably the most entertaining part of the whole ride was passing a group of under-prepared, wet and bedraggled cyclists from a major bank on a corporate outing. It does reinforce how important it is to have the right kit for all weather. It was also a shame for this crew as the trail is a lovely ride. Very nice.

Lowlights

Finding a sensible route from the end of the Lilydale to Warburton Rail Trail to in-Melbourne shared paths was challenging. I would not recommend the route I took – it was hilly, narrow in parts and confusing. I suspect I would have been better off taking the Bayswater-Lilydale trail and making my way through the back of Croydon somehow. Once finally on some of the in-city trails these were a nice way to travel.

Other tips and recommendations

Do yourself a favour and vist 3 Ravens Brewery. Best IPAs of the trip.

And finally, my Brunswick Airbnb. Wow. Amazing value and the only downside was the raucous local possums.

Summing up

This was an epic trip. I was blessed by mild and pretty dry weather, but I’d recommend it to anyone. The Australian Alps, and the valleys through which many rivers running from them pass, are under travelled yet stunning parts of this country.

I confirmed again that you can do a long trip like this on a mountain bike. I really enjoy cycling on 2.35 tyres – on rougher roads they just take the edge off things, and you feel more confident heading down a hill at pace. Typically, though, a drop bar mountain bike would have been faster.

I also learnt again that with a little planning there are some lovely back roads that can take you a long way, and these are not fire trails but well maintained routes that have infrequent but regular traffic – reassuring if the very worst happens.

Finally, don’t stress about a one way trip. I flew home courtesy of Qantas with my bike being cafefully boxed by the great folk at Commuter Cycles, and then catching an Uber XL to the airport. I have used this approach a few times now and have not yet had a single issue – just remember to:

• Book in at a local bikeshop well in advance, confirming they can do a boxing for you. The box should also happily fit any usual bikepacking luggage. Fee seems to currently be up to around $100, in this case including a basic bike clean, box provision, disassembly, and extensive wrapping and padding of the bike.
• Take out any battery packs and put in carry-on (I also do this for lights). Also either get approval in advance or don’t take any gas cylinders
• Not to bother taping up your box much as they will want to scan inside at the oversize luggage.
• Uber XL is great, but an alternative is to call the taxi company and ask for a wagon/maxi taxi.