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Flash bikepacking weekender: Canberra – Goulburn

I have previously cycled to and from Goulburn, but by taking roads to the east of the Hume Highway and Collector (see the Crookwell and Nowra trips). I really wanted to try the roads north of Collector and east of Gunning, knowing that there were good ways to cycle to or from each of these places. So, this formed the basis of the plan for my latest weekender.

Day 1: Canberra to Goulburn via Gunning

There are some great gravel options in the area bounded by Murrumbateman Road, Barton Highway, Hume Highway and Federal Highway. I’ve explored a few: such as to Yass and onwards, Gundaroo, and Gunning. My favourite way to get out of town and to this area is via Spring Range and Nanima Roads, connecting on to Dicks Creek Road. At least they are normally, but the magpies in spring were brutal.

After Murrumbateman Road, my preferred route to Gunning minimises the time on Gundaroo Road by taking Yass River Road and then Berrebangelo Creek Road. Yass River Road is the busiest of the gravel roads on this trip, being a connector between a lot of properties in the area. But busy is all relative – I think I was passed by 2 vehicles on this Saturday.

Berrebangalo Creek Road is typical of this area – a combination of local farms and open-wide views as you crest some of the gentle hills. This continues on the final stretch into Gunning via Lade Vale Road. Despite being sealed, this also seems to have quite limited traffic.

From Gunning, what is now known as Cullerin Road is the former Hume Highway. Other than a few locals and folk driving classic cars, you pretty much have this road to yourself. It is broad, pretty smooth, and roughly follows the railway. Running all the way through to Breadalbane, I really enjoyed the scenery whilst noting that possibly the last time this road was properly maintained was when it was still the Hume Highway – in 1993!

The final stretch into Goulburn is a mix of gravel and tarmac, starting with the very nice Breadalbane Road through to Parkesbourne, a place with an interesting but not entirely surprising etymology. Lovely.

Day 2: Goulburn to Canberra via Breadalbane, Collector and Gundaroo

Retracing my steps on the way out of Goulburn via Gurrundah and Henry Parkes Roads, there are a few pinchy climbs before descending down to Parkesbourne and the plain that takes you through to the railway and Breadalbane.

Breadalbane Road continues after its namesake village as the route to Collector. Another of the roads I had spied on previous cycling trips but never taken, this “sealed” backroad is sometimes more patchwork of pothole fixes than original tarmac. But, great views and a lovely route, particularly as it passes Wet Lagoon (are there lagoons that aren’t wet?).

After Collector, the very steep climb up Collector Road to Marked Tree Road is a challenge, but from here this is a great gravel route through to Gundaroo – including epic views over Lake George. Once at Gundaroo there are choices as how to return to town. I was happy to cruise in via Sutton, but a lower traffic option is via Mulligans Flat Road to Gungahlin.

Tips, recommendations and things I’d change

I was blessed with some great weather, other than a strong westerly that thankfully was more useful than not.

One of the great things about cycling these routes is the cafes – Merino Cafe in Gunning, and Some Cafe in Collector are just tremendous. The coffee at the Merino is particularly good, and I love the food options at Some Cafe.

Goulburn is surprisingly expensive for motels and hotels. I did manage to find a great sleep at the Black Sheep – renovated rooms, quiet, good value. I would not hesitate to stay here again. It also was a short walk from the Gordon Hotel – very friendly and solid food options.


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